Reptiles
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BASIC LIZARD CARE
(Courtesy of Washington State University, College of Veterinary Medicine)
Lizards are the most diversified of the reptile group; showing the greatest distinction of feeding and dwelling strategies. Lizards can be herbivores (plant eating), carnivores (meat eating), or omnivores (plant and meat eating). Lizards can be aquatic (freshwater), marine (sea-water), terrestrial (land dwelling), and even arboreal (tree dwelling). The life span of lizards ranges between 3 to 10 years for small lizards and 10 to 20 years for the larger species. You can see how it is very important to know your lizards needs, so you can evaluate the housing and nutritional needs of a particular species.
ENVIRONMENT
THE CAGE
A common type of cage used for a single captive lizard is a fish aquarium. The size of the aquarium should be large enough to allow for exercise if confinement is 100%. A smaller confinement can be substituted if the lizard is allowed out of it's cage for supervised exercise. Think of the animals comfort. Would you want to live under the conditions to which the lizard is subjected? If a homemade wooden cage is constructed, the cage should be coated with polyurethane to prevent absorption of feces and urine into the wood. The polyurethane should be allowed to air dry for several days before the lizard is placed in the cage. When designing a homemade cage, one needs to consider how to properly heat and light the environment and judge ease of cleaning.
HEATING THE CAGE
Lizards, like other reptiles, are poikilotherms (cold-blooded), and require external sources of heat and cold to regulate bodily functions. In the wild, basking in the sun or on sun warmed objects is the usual method to raise the lizards body temperature. When the sun goes down and the temperature drops, lizards have their time of inactivity or rest. Lizards in captivity need this temperature gradient also. There are two common ways to accomplish this. One is the use of the commercially available "Hot Rock", available at most pet stores. The other is the use of a heating a pad under one end of the elevated aquarium. Care should be taken when using these devices; they occasionally develop hot spots and can burn your lizard. A periodic check of the heat source will insure this will not happen. Light sources can also provide heat sources in the cage but should not be thought of as an adequate heat source when used alone. We recommend the heat source to be situated on one side of the cage, so your lizard can pick the most comfortable temperature. The preferred high optimum temperature for most tropical lizard species is between 85 degrees F and 103 degrees F.
LIGHTING THE CAGE
Captive reptiles rarely receive adequate exposure to Ultra Violet (U.V.), light especially when they are housed indoors. U.V. light is necessary in order for an individual to properly absorb and assimilate dietary calcium. A "Grow Light" or "Vita-Lite" should be added to the cage to provide a wide spectrum of light rays. Window glass and plastic filter out U.V. light; therefore, the light should be set up inside the cage or set upon a screened top so that the lizard can not be burned. Lizards can also be taken outside on warm, sunny days. Care should be taken to provide the animal with a shaded area to avoid overheating. In order to approximate a natural photoperiod, it is best to supply 10 to 12 hours of darkness each day. A gradual increase in the number of light hours supplied in the spring and a gradual decrease in the number of light hours provided in the fall and winter months is recommended. Geckos are nocturnal so access to artificial or natural sunlight is not necessary for successful captive maintenance.
HUMIDITY AND BATHING
For many reptile species commonly sold through the pet trade, a relative humidity of 50% - 70% is ideal. Increasing the humidity during the shedding process will make it easier for your reptile to shed it's skin. You can increase the humidity by misting your lizard with a spray bottle, placing a damp towel near the heat source or bathing your lizard in shallow warm water. Some lizards, like the common green iguana, are very good swimmers and enjoy bathing in deeper water.
CAGE SUBSTRATE
There is no universally accepted litter material. Some materials do not absorb well, some are easily ingested causing obstruction and impaction of the G.I. tract, and some are readily converted into culture media for pathogenic organisms. Wood shavings are highly resinous. Cat litter and corn cob shavings can cause impaction and dehydration. We recommend newspaper, butchers wrap or artificial turf for cage bottoms. Cleaning and changing substrate is an important husbandry practice. A large portion of the bacterial and fungal diseases of captive reptiles result from their daily exposure to fecal contamination and a damp filthy environment.
CAGE ACCESSORIES
Tree limbs, rocks, logs, and artificial plants provide a more natural environment and encourage normal behavior. They can provide a place to hide when the lizard is resting, a basking area and an opportunity to exercise.
FEEDING REQUIREMENTS
WATER
Many reptiles will refuse to drink voluntarily from containers of standing water. Some will only drink water from lapping dew like drops from misted foliage; others will drink from vessels of fresh water. Captive reptiles will frequently soak in their water containers. It is imperative to know which lizards will only accept moisture from dew droplets.
DIET
Improper nutrition and failure to eat are the most frequent causes of ailments and death in captive reptiles. Failure to eat may be due to lack of acceptable food for the species, prolonged feeding of a nutritionally inadequate diet, too frequent handling, improper environment temperature, or various other factors. The reptile owner should take extra time to research the natural diet of their pet and provide acceptable supplements which the lizard will eat. This will help insure a long healthy life. Listed below are some selected food preferences for some lizard species. This information is adapted from "Aspects of Captive Reptile Husbandry" - Fredric Frye
SPECIES SMALL MAMMALS BIRDS INSECTS EGGS FRUITS/VEGGIES
Gecko X X some
Iguana X X X some X
Monitor X X X X X
Tegu X X X X some
*Cat and dog food is a well balanced supplement readily eaten by many lizard species
SIGNS OF ILLNESS
Improper shedding
Lack of activity
Loss of appetite
Abnormal coloration
Vomiting or regurgitation
Swellings
Lizards, like dogs and cats, can benefit from an annual examination by your veterinarian.
BASIC TURTLE CARE
(Courtesy of Washington State University, College of Veterinary Medicine)
Sound reptilian husbandry is the key to maintaining a healthy animal. Most of the health problems seen in reptiles relate directly to inadequate management and nutritional practices. With this information in mind, you can help your pet live a longer by adopting a good feeding and management program.
This outline is a basic guide to turtle care and should not replace a good herpetology reference or the advice of a veterinarian who is knowledgeable in the area of management and diseases of turtles.
Turtle
Any of an order (Testudines) of land, freshwater, and marine reptiles that have a toothless horny beak and a shell of bony dermal plates usually covered with horny shields enclosing the trunk and into which the head, limbs, and tail usually may be withdrawn.
Tortoise
A land turtle with a well arched, massive carapace. The legs are stump-footed without free fingers and toes but with claws. The carapace is mostly rigid.
Terrapin
Turtles of the coastal marshes. Terrapins rarely stray from salt or brackish water. Seven races are recognized, all of a single species.
Carapace
A bony or keratinous case or shield covering the back of a turtle.
Plastron
The underside of the shell of a turtle consisting typically of nine symmetrically placed bones covered with keratin.
General
Turtles can be found on every continent except Antarctica. There are over 250 different species of turtles, their habitat ranging from open sea to arid desert. Externally they are characterized by having a bony shell, horny plates, and a leathery body covering.
Tortoises can be found on every continent except Australia. Only one genus (4 subspecies), the Gopher tortoise, is indigenous to the United States. Well protected against predators, with stumpy feet and heavily sealed limbs, they ma live to be 130 years old. All turtles are oviparous, or egg laying. Turtles are poikilothermic, meaning that they require and outside source of heat to regulate their body temperature.
Environment
The Cage
Land species may be kept in an outdoor pen during warm weather if they have access to a burrow or shade area. Water turtles can be housed outside as well, provided they have a pool as well as basking areas. Even though there are no specific data on outdoor enclosure sizes, adequate room for exercise should be available. This depends on the number and size of turtles housed in the enclosure as well as the available space. All enclosures must be escape proof at the bottom and top (30 " high bent inwards for tortoises) to prevent escape. Incase of mixing of different species compatibility must be considered. Care must be taken to avoid injury and death from natural predators if outdoor housing is used. The pen should be moved periodically to provide fresh "pasture". If lawn pesticides and chemicals are used, do not house your turtle outside. Winter quarters can consist of an aquarium for small species , or a suitable polyurethaned wood enclosure. The enclosure should be 1' x 2' for turtles and 3' x 3' x3' for tortoises.
Heating
The ambient temperature for turtles and tortoises should remain between 73 - 89 degrees F. Heat can be provided by and infra-red heat lamp shining on one corner of the enclosure. If an additional heat source is needed, a heating pad may be placed under not in the enclosure. Regardless of the species, we recommend the use of a thermometer inside the cage to carefully monitor the temperature. The body temperatures of reptiles closely matched that of the room temperature of the cage. If the temperature is too cold, the turtles bodily functions slow down and the appetite becomes poor or non existent. At lower temperatures, reptiles are also more susceptible to disease. Temperatures that are too high can distress or kill a reptile.
Lighting
A "Vita-lite" or blacklight BL is absolutely essential to reptilian husbandry. Reptiles that are housed indoors must be exposed to a "Vita-lite" for at least 12 hours per day. It should be installed no more than 4' above the turtle. The bulbs lose their efficacy and should be replaced after approximately 6 months of use (even if the bulb is still functioning). If a blacklight BL is used, the exposure time should be decreased to 30 minutes per day. Glass or plastic shields should not be used because they filter out important ultraviolet light. Natural sunlight is the best choice, but shade must be provided. Your pet should have approximately 12 hours of darkness per day.
Humidity and Bathing
A humidity level between 50-70 % should be maintained for most species. Swimming pools should always be available for water turtles. All turtles should be provided with an area to dry off to prevent shell rot. Tortoises should have a large water bowl made available to they, as they will enter the water to drink and soak but not to swim. The water must be kept clean to prevent dangerous shell disease or ammonia build up.
Cage Substrate
Aquatics species require enough room for swimming, resting and basking. Soft shelled turtles should be provided with enough fine sand for burrowing in, allowing the carapace to be nearly covered. Small rocks and pebbles should be avoided as turtles may ingest the and become impacted. Water turtles require a large swimming area. The water depth depends on the species requiring the new owner become informed on specific requirements.
Species requiring brackish water, such as terrapins, must have one Tablespoon of non-iodized salt added per gallon of water. Water turtles require a good filtration system and outside filters are recommended. The swimming water is easily fouled by fecal material and food. Feeding your turtle in a separate will eliminate many health problems. Before returning the turtle to it's aquarium be sure to rinse it off.
The aquarium should be cleaned periodically using a very dilute chlorox and water solution.
Cage Accessories
Large rocks and logs for basking may be added to the aquarium. Sand for burrowing will provide your turtle with visual security or a place to hide. A large box or non-toxic plant species can be added to serve the same purpose, as well as for their aesthetic value.
Feeding Requirements
Water Turtles
Water turtles will feed only if they are in water. Purina trout chow, dry fish flavored cat food, balanced tropical fish food, or turtle food may be used to feed adult turtles. Occasional whole food items such as guppies, minnows, goldfish or earthworms should be offered. Adult water turtles are omnivorous, predominately feeding on vegetable matter and approximately 25 % meat diet. Juvenile turtles are carnivorous, primarily eating meat to promote rapid growth and development. Seaweed, spinach, broccoli tops and leaves, mustard greens, grated carrots and carrot tops are among the better vegetable foods. Turtles should NOT be fed strictly muscle or organ meat ( such as hamburger or heart) because defiicencies will develop. Young turtles should be fed daily and adult turtles every third day. Feeding should be done in a separate tank to preserve the water quality of the home tank.
Terrapins
Terrapins should be fed either a commercial terrapin diet, if available, or whole food items such as fish, crustaceans, mollusks, and insects.
Tortoises
Tortoises are mainly vegetarians but will occasionally eat insects, carrion, and small rodents. Vegetable matter should consist of native grasses, succulent plants, fruit of cacti, seeds, greens (mustard ,collard, beet, turnip) bok choy, nappa cabbage, broccoli, kale, cauliflower, green peas and pods, corn, string beans, dandelions, nasturtium flowers and leaves, squash, pumpkin, romaine and butter lettuce, berries, apples, pears, peaches, plums, sugar free breakfast cereals, whole wheat bread, and soaked dry dog food.
The colors green, red, orange, and yellow seem to attract tortoises in their food choices. Tortoises should be fed every other day, with fresh water available at all times. Color preferences for food may apply to other turtles.
Hibernation
Sick or parasited animals should not be hibernated. Tortoises which are to be conditioned for hibernation should be fed a diet rich in digestible nutrients such as melons, figs, fruits and squashes one week prior to hibernation. Food and water should be restricted for 2-3 days prior to hibernation. The optimum temperature for hibernation is 35-40 degrees F. Before hibernating your animal it would be wise to do some reading on your particular species to familiarize yourself with special hibernation requirements. Even though it's not generally done, water turtles can be hibernated.
SIGNS OF ILLNESS
Runny nose
Swollen eyes
Coughing
Gasping
Swellings
Weight loss
Loss of appetite
Shell lesions
Listlessness
Lethargy
Loss of equilibrium in water
Open mouth breathing
Deformed or soft shell
Turtles, like dogs and cats, benefit from an annual examination by your veterinarian.
BASIC SNAKE CARE
(Courtesy of Washington State University, College of Veterinary Medicine)
Sound reptile husbandry is the key to maintaining a healthy animal. Most of the health problems seen in snakes and other reptiles relate directly to inadequate management and nutritional practices. With this information in mind, you can help your pet to live a longer, healthier life.
This outline is a basic guide to snake care and should by no means replace a good herpetology reference or the advice of a veterinarian who specializes in this area.
General
Snakes can be found on every continent except Antarctica. They may be terrestrial (land dwelling), marine (sea dwelling) or arboreal (tree dwelling).
Physically snakes differ from other species of reptiles in that they are legless and lack moveable eyelids and an external ear opening. Their life span can be as long as thirty to forty years. Each species varies in it's physical and psychological needs. The new reptile owner should research the housing and nutritional needs of their particular species.
Environment
Snakes will utilize both horizontal and vertical space in their enclosure. The snake should be able to stretch out and move about the cage freely. Aquariums or a polyurethaned wood and plexiglass enclosure work well for most reptile species. Avoid the use of wire or large gauge screening, as snakes will often rub or strike and cause facial lesions. Be sure to tape or lock the enclosure as snakes are apt to escape.
Cage Substrate
Newspaper or Astroturf are suitable substrates for snakes. Astroturf may even assist the snake with the shedding process. Regardless of which substrate you choose, it should be removed and cleaned as soon as it is soiled. The enclosure and all props should be cleaned with a dilute chlorine bleach and water solution once every one to two weeks.
Cage Accessories
Most species of snakes will benefit from the addition of clean, non-resinous branches. The climbing branches should be firmly anchored and large enough to support the snake's body weight. You can assist your snake while it's shedding by adding rocks to rub on and a large water bowl for soaking. Most snakes need a quiet , isolated place to call their own. Offering some type of "hide box" gives reptiles some visual security. This can also be achieved with silk plants or cage litter. Desert species prefer sand litter, burrowing species prefer leaf litter and or potting soil (making sure to remove decaying matter frequently).
Heating
Snakes are poikilothermic, meaning they require an outside source of heat to regulate their body temperature. A temperature gradient should be made available within the cage. This can be accomplished by placing a heating pad under (NOT IN) half of the enclosure. Commercially available "hot rocks" may be used with a large flat natural rock on top of it to avoid a thermal burn. A heat lamp placed on top of the cage can provide a comfortable overall temperature. The optimum temperature varies with the species, however, most species do quite well at 75 - 80 degrees F. Tropical species require a slightly higher temperature of 75-95 degrees F. For all species we recommend the use of a thermometer inside the cage to carefully monitor any fluctuation in temperature.
Lighting
A "Vita-Lite" or "Black light" is absolutely essential to reptile husbandry. Reptiles MUST be exposed to the full spectrum of light for at least 12 hours per day. A black light may be substituted for the "Vita Lite" with a 30 minute exposure time per day. Snakes should not be allowed access to the bulb, as burns may result. The light should be shielded from the snake by using a soft plastic mesh or screen. Glass or plastic shields should not be used because they filter out important ultraviolet light.
The "Vita Lite" should be placed no more than four feet above the snake. Natural sunlight on warm, NOT HOT days is the best choice. Make sure to provide a shady spot with a bath towel so the snake can cool down if need be. Natural sunlight will sometimes entice and anorexic snake to eat. You may also find that your snake will be more active and even aggressive after sunlight exposure. Make sure to provide your snake with approximately 12 hours of darkness per day.
Humidity
Humidity needs vary with the species, ranging from 35-70 %. Desert species require levels on the low end of the range and jungle species on the high end of the range. Most species tend to do well between 60-70 % humidity. Means of delivering water to the enclosure include plant misters, water dishes and swim dishes. Some species enjoy frequent swimming. A bathtub or large sink filled with tepid water provides a nice large swim area. Maintaining proper humidity levels will assist your snake during the shedding process.
Diet
Determining your snake's dietary needs will require a knowledge of the species needs. Regardless of the type of snake you own, DO NOT FEED LIVE PREY (other than insects) to your snake. Severe injuries and infections can occur from the prey animal biting and chewing on the snake. The size of what you feed and how often will depend on the time of year and whether the snake is young or mature. Generally speaking , snakes should be fed once every 1-2 weeks. Refer to the table below.
| Species | Rodents | Insects | Birds | Snakes | Lizards | Fish | Frogs | Slugs | Worms | Salamanders |
| Boa, Python, Rat Snake, Gopher & Bull Snake |
X |
X |
X |
X |
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| Garter, Ribbon & Water Snakes | X | X | X | X | X | |||||
| Indigo, Racers & King Snakes | x | x | x | X | X | |||||
| Ring neck & Brown Snakes | X | X | ||||||||
| Racers, Coachwhips & Vine Snakes | X | X | X | X | X |
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