Small Animals
BASIC HAMSTER CARE
(Courtesy of Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine)
BASIC HAMSTER CARE
(Courtesy of Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine)
Hamsters are friendly, inquisitive, entertaining animals who make very good pets for children and adults. They can learn to enjoy the warmth and closeness of their human caretakers and their often unique personalities ensure their standing as popular members of the family. Their only real disadvantage is their relatively short life span. This outline is a basic guide to hamster care and should not replace the advice of a veterinarian who specializes in this area.
General
The most common hamster found in pet stores is the Golden or Syrian hamster. They originated in the Middle East and Southeastern Europe. In the wild, hamsters live in deep burrows where they may store as much as several pounds of grain.
Hamsters are nocturnal animals, meaning they are active at night with short periods of daytime activity.
The Hamster's popularity as a pet has increased due to several factors; their availability, affordability, and small size. The only real drawback to hamster ownership is their relatively short life span.
Hamsters come in many colors, including the "wild" type, red brown, cinnamon, cream, white, and piebald, as well as the popular "teddy bear", and long haired hamster.
Hamsters have large cheek pouches, which are used for food storage and transport. Pouches are able to expand tremendously and extend as far back as the shoulders. Dark brown patches, or flank glands, can be found over each hip. These glands are used to mark the hamster's territory. The flank glands are larger and more noticeable on male hamsters.
Nutrition
Hamsters are omnivorous, meaning that they eat both meat and vegetable matter but their total nutritional requirements have NOT yet been determined. Hamsters seem to do well on commercial pellet rodent diets. The pellets can be supplemented with sugarless breakfast cereals, whole wheat bread, uncooked pasta, cooked chicken, tuna, cheese, and fruits and vegetables. Always wash all produce before feeding it to your hamster. Pesticides and bacteria can sometimes be found on supermarket produce. Traditional seed diets can contain a lot of oil, these diets can quickly become rancid. Obese hamsters result from feeding a strictly seed diet.
Housing and Cages
The cage can be made of stainless steel, plastic, or glass. Hamsters are said to require 20 square inches of floor area per animal. The height of the cage should be at least 6 inches. The flooring should be solid with deep bedding and nesting material. Pet stores sell plastic enclosures with both horizontal and vertical tubes, these enclosures are well suited for hamsters.
Hamsters are masters of escape, make sure that the enclosure is "escape proof". Free-roaming hamsters gnaw on phone and electrical wires, as well as risk being stepped on. Make sure that your hamster is well contained at all times, for his safety.
Bedding
Clean, non-toxic, absorbent and dust-free bedding should be provided. We recommend the use of shredded butcher's wrap or newspaper as bedding. Tissues can be offered as nesting material. The bedding should be changed regularly (at least once per week).
Compatibility
Sexually mature female hamsters should not be housed together, as they are very aggressive towards each one another. Breeding females are physically bigger than males, and very aggressive. Male hamsters should be removed from the cage as soon as breeding has been completed (if you desire to breed your hamster) to prevent injuries from the female.
Food and Water Dishes
Your hamster should be fed in a ceramic bowl. They are not easily tipped or contaminated by feces and urine. We recommend the use of a water bottle and sipper tube, rather than a water dish. The sipper tube should be checked regularly to make sure it is not clogged, and that your hamster is receiving an adequate water supply. Food and water dishes should be washed and disinfected daily.
Handling/Restraint
When handling or restraining your hamster, you may want to use a glove or a towel, as hamsters can deliver a nasty bite. Hamsters may be held in one hand, with the hamster resting against your body. Be very careful not to drop your hamster, or accidentally kick it's exercise ball, as serious spinal injuries can result. If you want to handle a hamster while it's asleep you should awaken it before attempting to pick it up. Otherwise it might be alarmed and try to defend itself against a perceived threat and bite.
Antibiotics
NEVER give antibiotics to your hamster, unless prescribed by a veterinarian. Hamsters are very sensitive to antibiotics, and in improperly used they can kill your pet. We recommend the use of yogurt (1/10 tsp orally, twice per day) while your pet is receiving antibiotic therapy, and for 5 days thereafter.
Signs of Illness
Swellings
Decreased appetite
Labored or rapid breathing
Discharge from the eyes or nose
Lethargy/depression
Incoordination
Diarrhea
Hair Loss
Parasites
Weight loss
Biological Data
Body Weight 85-150 grams
Average life span 10-24 months
Breeding Age Male/ 10- 14 weeks Female/ 6-10 weeks
Estrous cycle 4 days
Gestation period 15-16 days
Litter size 5-9
Weaning age 20-25 days
BASIC FERRET CARE
(Courtesy of Washington State University College of Veterinary Medicine)
The popularity of ferrets as pets has increased in recent years. They tend to have a friendly disposition and can be very entertaining. To maintain the health of your pet, it is necessary to maintain a good feeding and management program. This outline is a basic guide and should by no means replace the advice of a veterinarian who specializes in this area.
General
Ferrets belong to the mustelidae family. Some close relatives include minks, skunks, weasels, otters and badgers. Domestic ferrets should not be confused with the native North American blackfooted ferret, which is an endangered species. Domestication began at least 2,000 years ago in Europe when ferrets were used for hunting small game (rabbits) or to control rodents. There are several color variations with sable and albino being the most common. Males are called hobs, females jills, and the young are referred to as kits.
We suggest your pet ferret be supervised when out of it's cage. Ferrets enjoy burrowing into odd places which makes them vulnerable to injury if their presence in not expected. Ferrets are naturally curious and if left outside without supervision they probably will not return. Small cat harnesses and leashes work well if you want to take your ferret out for a stroll.
A "musky odor" is the most objectionable feature of a ferret. Although removal of the scent glands reduces the odor it does not eliminate it. Much of the musky smell comes from the skin glands and can be substantially decreased by regular bathing.
Since ferrets are quite fearless, an unsuspecting one can be harmed by a dog or cat. Cats seem to tolerate ferrets better than dogs and it can be quite a delightful experience watching them play together.
Your Ferret's Home
Ferrets sleep a lot and can be kept in cages large enough to hold a litter pan, a blanket or towel to curl up in and a small exercise area. Ferrets can be housed indoors or outdoors. Keep in mind that ferrets housed outside are prone to heat exhaustion if exposed to direct sunlight during the hot months of the year. Good air circulation and a shaded area in the cage will eliminate this problem. If the outside temperature falls below 32 degrees F. supplemental heat is necessary. Ferrets that are house pets should be confined when there is no supervision. This is for the protection of the ferret as well as small children. You need to be sure that the confinement you choose is escape proof, because ferrets can get into some tight places. Ferrets usually choose one corner of their cage as a relief area, so a litter pan placed there will make cleaning easier. You can use the same method to litter train your ferret while out of it's cage. You may need several litter pans depending on how many corners your ferret has access to.
Diet
Most people maintain their ferret on commercial cat food. Because ferrets have a shorter digestive tract than cats, it is possible that ferrets are not obtaining adequate nutrients from cat food alone. This could lead to nutritional deficiencies and ultimately a shortened life. We suggest using a commercially prepared ferret food or mink chow or supplementing your ferrets diet with raw liver, egg yolk, milk, bread, as well as fruits and vegetables. You also can provide wholesome table scraps. Water should be provided at all times.
Spaying and Neutering
Spaying and neutering ferrets is nearly the same surgery that is done on dogs and cats and is every bit as safe. It is common to remove the anal scent gland at the time of neutering to reduce cost. Both surgeries can be done at 6-8 months, and it is recommended to spay a female before her first heat.
Vaccinations
Ferrets are highly susceptible to canine distemper virus and must be vaccinated for their protection. recently, a rabies vaccine has been licensed for ferrets. Check with your veterinarian for recommended schedules. There is no documentation that ferrets need to be vaccinated against other viruses.
Prolonged Estrus (Aplastic Anemia)
A female will remain in heat until she is bred. The increase in estrogen in the blood stream causes bone marrow depression (this is where blood cells are formed), subsequent anemia, and possible death. Typical clinical signs of prolonged estrus are swollen vulva, pale mucus membranes, hair loss, loss of appetite, and depression. Talk to your veterinarian about prevention and treatment.
Hair Loss
Shedding occurs as a natural process. Ferrets may lose their hair for other, as yet undetermined, reasons. You should consult with your veterinarian to rule out possible external parasites and nutritional or hormonal deficiencies.
Insulinoma (Pancreatic Tumor)
An insulinoma causes the pancreas to secrete too much insulin (the opposite of diabetes), which causes the ferret's blood sugar to go below normal limits. A rapid decrease in energy and appetite often accompanied by convulsions should alert you to call your veterinarian.
Human Influenza
Ferrets are susceptible to several strains of influenza virus. Ferrets will become listless, lose their appetite and have a fever. Discharge from the nose and sneezing are common. This is usually self limiting and rarely causes death. To decrease the chance of transmission, it is a good idea not to play with your ferret if you are sick with the flu.
Foreign Body Ingestion
Ferrets which are allowed freedom out of their cage will often ingest materials which are not digested. This can cause acute or intermittent problems such as vomiting, loss of appetite or changed bowel movements. Consult with your veterinarian when this occurs. Ferrets, like dogs and cats, can benefit from annual examination by your veterinarian.
Biological Data
Coming soon:
Rabbit, Guinea Pig, Rat & Mouse, and Hedgehog Care
